Bring history to life with the Artisans of Istanbul

The heartbeat of small business thrives here in Istanbul. I'm surrounded by it wherever I turn in this city of over 15 million people. The late spring weather is perfect, and there's so much history that one week here won't nearly be enough. Fortunately, I've got comfortable walking shoes and a keen eagerness to meet artisans, with my husband once again as my travel companion on this adventure.

Istanbul is often referred to as the city where East meets West. Part of Istanbul is in Europe, part in Asia, separated by the Bosphorus Strait. One thing common on both sides of the Bosphorus? Their love for cats! If you're not familiar, just search for the Cats of Istanbul to learn more. As a cat lover myself, I find it delightful to see plenty of food bowls, water dishes, and little cat houses scattered about.

We've chosen to stay in the Sultanahmet district on the European side of the city, giving us easy access to numerous historic sites. Moreover, we're only a short walk away from one of our artisan visits. Wandering through Istanbul, it's evident that artisans and crafts have a deep-rooted history here, woven into the city's fabric in the most delightful way. In our first few days here, we took several tours organized by locals, as I prefer to see the country through their eyes, gaining a firsthand perspective of day-to-day life.

One morning, as we strolled through the Hippodrome area en route to the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, I couldn't help but envision chariots racing here. The Hippodrome, constructed between 203 AD and 330 AD, has surprisingly well-preserved remains for its age. Our walk then led us to the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, also known as the Blue Mosque, which recently reopened after extensive renovations. Its exquisite tile work and painted motifs showcase the deep artisan traditions rooted in this city.

Like many parts of the world, Turkey has experienced significant inflation in recent years, coupled with currency devaluation. During my visit, the value of the Turkish Lira dropped by 10%. On one hand, this makes it more expensive for locals to travel outside Turkey, but on the other hand, it has led to a surge in tourism, making it more affordable to travel here.

For this particular trip, I've researched and arranged meetings with two artisans, each with unique businesses. On the morning of our first artisan interview, we set out for a traditional Turkish breakfast, a delectable smorgasbord of treats. Between olives, cured meats, dips, sauces, eggs, cheese, fresh bread, preserves, and honey, you won't leave hungry. Fully satisfied and in the right frame of mind, we were ready for our first artisan interview.

Exploring Turkish Ebru Marbling with Betül

Our first stop was Betül's gallery, where we were surprised to find that she and her husband Ali had closed their class for the day to focus on our conversation. Over cups of steaming hot tea with a view of the Bosphorus, we began with a history lesson about their business.

Betül's class location was strategically chosen near numerous historical monuments, ensuring a constant flow of potential customers due to tourism. Ali explained, "I used to have a gallery in this area. When this building came up for sale, we recognized an opportunity to conduct classes right here in this historical area. Tourists can easily fit in a class between visits to the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and Hagia Sophia. It's a great way for them to experience a traditional craft."

Turkish Ebru marbling is the art of painting on water, with a history dating back to the 13th century. Betül initially studied her craft at Mimar Sinan Fine Art University. She shared, "After finishing school, I worked for larger companies to gain experience. However, after having children, I needed more flexible work."

Betül then proceeded to give us a demonstration of the technique, starting with the mesmerizing process of mixing pigments. She expertly explained their use of Oxgall and traditional techniques, emphasizing the use of natural pigments, while noting that acrylics are more common in other parts of the world. We watched in awe as she created beautiful patterns, a truly hypnotic experience.

While the focus of the class was on paper marbling, Betül explained that this technique could be applied to various items, from paper and dishes to notebooks and fabric. "We focus this course on paper marbling because it's approachable for students. We also have them create different designs to give them a feel for various techniques."

We spent the next few hours creating several pictures to take home as mementos from the class. It was a fascinating experience, dropping pigments into water and manipulating them into stunning patterns. I left the session with a newfound appreciation for the beauty and craftsmanship of Ebru Marbling, as well as cherished keepsakes.

Preserving the Art of Tile Mosaics

Our visit to the Istanbul School of Mosaic was a different experience. Located in the Moda area of Istanbul in a quiet neighborhood, we met Gözde Tolan and her assistant, Merve Serman.

Tile mosaic art might bring to mind famous landmarks like Hagia Sophia or the works of Antonio Gaudi in Barcelona. Yet, the technique of tile art is much older. Merve took us through a brief history lesson, explaining, "Mosaic making started in Greek and Roman times (i.e., BC) using natural materials like pebbles and stones. During the Byzantine and Medieval eras, mosaic making evolved, incorporating sacred and religious subjects. Nowadays, mosaic art has continued to evolve, offering various techniques and styles."

Before we started making our project we enjoyed some tea and a chance to learn more about the school itself. In my research of Istanbul, this school stood out as something unique. I wanted to understand where it came from. I asked Gözde how the school started. 

Before we began our project, we had the chance to learn more about the school. It intrigued me, and I asked Gözde how it all began. She shared, "I started making mosaic art to help me focus after having my first child. Friends noticed my art and started asking me to teach them. Over time, this grew into classes and eventually led to running a school."

“I really wanted to increase awareness of Mosaic making as an art form. Teaching classes helps more people become aware of this, and a great community is growing from this.”

The school offers classes for various skill levels, including kits for at-home projects, in-person courses for learning mosaic fundamentals, and studio time for longer projects. We were amazed by the work of advanced students, some of whom spent a year on passion projects. Gözde  shared “Some of our advanced students move on to booking studio time to continue working on larger, more complex projects.”

I noticed some of the amazing work that the advanced students were creating. On one of my tea breaks, I wandered over to look at an amazing piece that was in process. The student shared that she came to the studio once a week for four hours to work on her project. When I asked how long she worked on her project, she told me - one year! This was a passion project she was making for her home. 

Before I knew it, our time together was coming to an end. I brought home another keepsake and treasure from the course, as well as an appreciation for the art of mosaic making. 

As our time in Istanbul drew to a close, we reflected on the history, the people, and the experiences that had made our visit truly delightful. Surrounded by such unique artisan crafts, we were left with an appreciation for the rich tapestry of artistry in this city. While I've only touched on a few art forms in this article, there are many more waiting to be explored, tempting me to return. I hope these glimpses have tempted you to explore as well.

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