Designing my zero waste business

My name is Ilke, and I run a zero-waste textile accessories business based in London. For the past five years I’ve been handling everything from A to Z, wearing every hat along the way. It’s exhausting at times, but I truly love what I do and couldn’t imagine myself on any other path.

My design journey began at a very young age—around six or seven—when I confidently declared that I wanted to be a fashion designer. If you asked me now, I might think twice or even three times! Back then, I was laser-focused and determined to carve out my future. Throughout secondary school and high school, I was always sketching—portraits of my parents, quick studies of my friends during lessons, and countless doodles and designs. 

Over time, I started immersing myself in reading about climate change. I learned about recycling, upcycling, and the urgent need to move away from fast fashion. These values have shaped both my business and my entire approach to design and sustainability.

After much hard work, I secured a place at one of the most prestigious universities in Turkey. It felt like my dreams were coming true! During my studies, I had the opportunity to intern with renowned designers such as Bora Aksu and Ipekyol, as well as large-scale fashion factories in Turkey. In 2013, I won a fabric design competition organized by the Istanbul Textile and Apparel Exporter Associations, which awarded me a year of master’s studies in Europe. Having already fallen in love with London during my 2011 internship with Bora Aksu, I decided to apply to universities there. Perhaps it was the experience of working with him that made the city feel so magical.

I was accepted into the University of the Arts London (UAL), specifically Chelsea College of Arts, for an MA in Textiles with a sustainable approach. During this time, I continued to work with some well-known designers. Without realizing it at the time, I was slowly drifting away from them. After graduation, as a Turkish citizen, I faced a tough choice: return home or secure a job in the UK. I decided to try to secure a job in the UK.

Have you ever felt like despite following all the “right” steps, that doors don’t open to you the way you expected? In spite of all my work, and many, many applications and interviews, I couldn’t find a solid career opportunity. Thus, it was time to create my own path. And so, I launched Design & Sewing Services in 2016.

I knew my artisan business would take years of work. There was so much to learn. I had to refine and shape the vision for what I wanted. To balance this out I also worked as a freelance designer for various companies. Those years were a constant cycle of seeking new opportunities, applying for jobs, and navigating the uncertainty of short-term projects. But it was a valuable experience, as my perspective on the fashion industry began to shift. I became increasingly aware of how unsustainable many companies were—environmental concerns were often overlooked. As a freelancer, I had little power to change that. I frequently voiced the need for more conscious choices, reminding people that waste doesn’t just disappear; it simply moves to another part of the world. But for most, cost and profit took priority. 

This part of the journey was filled with twists and turns. For a while, I explored the world of costume and bespoke clothing. I worked on editorial shoots and created custom pieces for weddings. I collaborated with emerging designers on their collections or helped with the sampling. One of the highlights of this journey was in 2019 when I contributed to Kylie Minogue’s tour costumes—an incredible experience that felt surreal, seeing something I had made come to life on stage!

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